James’ Ice Cream

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Dolce

James’ Ice Cream



Z —



So I made the Lemon Meringue Pie Ice Cream!



It’s hardening in my freezer right now, but the first taste out of the
machine was pretty impressive. I ended up combining a few ideas for
the final procedure: I like Melissa Clark’s idea (from the NY times
recipe I sent) of making a “citrus sugar” using zest, I think this
adds the extra pop of flavor that the extract might provide in the
recipe you sent. However, I don’t like that she doesn’t make a “true
custard” base, so I’ve been following Alton Brown’s method for making
custard (http://www.ulive.com/video/good-eats-vanilla-ice-cream).
However, I also wanted to incorporate some corn syrup into the mixture
rather than all sugar because I LOVE what it does to the final texture
(I want dense and super creamy). Finally, I have been adding a tiny
bit of Xanthan Gum also because of what it does to texture (I bought a
bag of the “Bob’s Red Mill” brand stuff and use about 1/4-1/2 tsp per
1-2 qt batch of ice cream). Man, that sounds more complicated than it
really is. Here’s what I did (combined ingredients list below):



I started with 1/2 cup sugar in the blender (rather than food
processor as melissa clark suggested, which was why I had to start
editing ON THE FLY), with the zest of 3 lemons. Of course the stuff
was just instantly stuck to the sides and not really blending, so I
decided I’d add the corn syrup right then! I added about a half cup
thinking I could always add more later if I wanted the base sweeter
(I’ve read that the pre-churn mix should be sweeter than you want the
final product cuz cooling will blunt the perceived sweetness). This
made a beautiful thick yellow liquid/paste. To this I added 2 oz rye
(like the bourbon idea in the recipe you sent), alcohol also inhibits
ice crystal formation in the final mix – can you tell I’m obsessed
with non-icy homemade ice cream yet? At this moment I had a flash of
inspiration and decided I was going to just mix the egg yolks into all
this in the blender rather than whisking as I’ve done before, so I put
the 6 egg yolks in there, mixed it up (my blender was on low every
time I did anything), and it looked gorgeous again. While all this was
going down, I had my 2 cups heavy cream + 1 cup whole milk in a
saucepan on the stove, waiting for it to barely bubble as directed by
Alton Brown. Once it did, I tempered the egg mix by adding the heated
dairy one ladleful at a time into the blender while it was blending
(still on low), this worked great. I mixed it all into the blender,
just filling it barely. Now, I will say that a purist will probably
find this undesirable because when I poured it back into the pan,
there was a layer of tiny foamy bubbles on the top, but I was
undeterred by this. I think the issue is that if you’re judging your
custard’s done-ness by bubble formation, having that foam on the top
makes it very hard to judge. However, I use my candy thermometer to
tell me when the custard hits 170 as I’m constantly stirring, and
that’s my done-point. So, I stirred and waited until 170, took it off
the heat, and waited just a minute or two before adding the zest of
one more lemon and juice of one lemon and stirring in with the same
large spoon I’d been stirring the custard with. I poured all this into
a pre-chilled pyrex baking dish (one of the big rectangular ones),
snapped the lid on and put it in the fridge to chill. I left it
overnight, took it out, dumped it into the machine, added the 1/4-1/2
tsp (didn’t measure precisely) xanthan gum, and let the machine churn
for 30 minutes. It looked PERFECT! I tried to allow the machine to
incorporate the graham crackers and marshamallows (I chopped up 3
regular sized graham crackers and added perhaps a cup of mini
marshmallows – I LOVE STUFF IN ICE CREAM and the 1/2 cup + 1/2 cup
suggested sounded like NOT ENOUGH), but it couldn’t handle it! So I
mixed it up myself with a spatula, put it all into a smaller square
pyrex (maybe 9×9?), and it’s now chilling in the freezer looking like
perfection!!! WHEW. Not a recipe to try with young leo man, but a fun
one for a more intensely decadent treat perhaps?



Ingredients:

1/2 cup sugar

1/2 cup white corn syrup (+ more to taste)

zest of 4 lemons

juice of one lemon

2 oz rye (a younger – 2 yo – “grassier” rye I think would be best)

6 egg yolks

2 cups (1 pint) heavy cream

1 cup whole milk

1/4-1/2 tsp Xanthan Gum

3 graham crackers

1/2-1 cup mini marshmallows



Lots of love,



– jph